Monday 29 February 2016

On this day

On February 29th, 1916 - two entirely unrelated events. Hardly noted at the time, the first event was one of those unheeded warnings that lead on to ultimate disaster, the second so small scale that it would have been noticed by a handful of colleagues and perhaps a proud mum.
Firstly - on this day a hundred years ago, Hollweg, the German Chancellor, warned the Kaiser that pursuing a policy of unrestricted UBoat warfare would run the risk of dragging the US into the conflict. Thirteen months later, Woodrow Wilson stood before the US Congress to ask for their support, and Hollweg was proved right. War, as Wilson put it, had been "thrust upon the United States". For many months the greatest economic power in the world had resisted the call to get involved "over here", but the U Boat campaign was a disastrous misjudgement. Despite the defeat of Russia later in 1917, and the consequent freeing of a million troops that could bolster their numbers on the Western Front, the tide was turning against Germany. Pretty soon, in a war of attrition, the generals knew that the fresh faced "Doughboys" streaming into Europe would tip the balance.
The second event that occurred exactly a hundred years ago today - a keen soldier was promoted to the rank of Corporal. His name - Benito Mussolini. Like his future ally Adolf Hitler, so much of his thinking was forged by the conflict. I find myself wondering what on earth the comrades of both men made of their elevation to power in the 1930's, and of the fact that they were, despite these experiences, so determined to take their countries back to the battlefield. 

Friday 26 February 2016

Bespoke Battlefield Tour - an example

Lots of people ask me what I do, so here's what I did in the past few days!

Last Friday (19th February) I flew out to Paris to do a couple of days' work on a French Revolution Walk in the capital. It was a productive weekend, and I covered some miles on those French boulevards. Now feel confident about a prospective route, including the crucial lunch venues and occasional patisserie stops. All this takes some in depth research, as I'm sure you appreciate...
The story of the Revolution takes you between three crucial points - from the Bastille to the east to the Place de la Concorde, the old Place de la Revolution, where Madame La Guillotine was hard at work 220 years ago. Then over the river to Les Invalides to see Napolean's tomb. Visiting here brings the story full circle, as the guns and ammunition to attack the Bastille were looted from Les Invalides. The walk back into the centre through the Latin Quarter takes you in the footsteps of the mob in 1789. Along the way are reminders of the fact that Paris has seen the worst of European violence for the past two centuries. Sharpnel holes from WW1 Zeppelin raids and plaques reminding Parisiens that WW2 heroes died at that spot in 1944 are all underlining the fact that this city has played a central role in European history.


On Sunday morning I left the Gare du Nord to make the 55 minute journey to Arras. I was meeting clients that night for a bespoke battlefield tour, a birthday gift from a husband to his Welsh wife. We would be spending Monday on the Somme, and Tuesday afternoon around Ypres. We were going to see the Last Post on Tuesday night, and go our separate ways on Wednesday as they continued their European tour.

Arras was damp and a little on the cold side on Sunday, but the downbeat weather forecasters got it wrong. Monday was overcast, but largely dry, and we started our Welsh theme with a visit to Bois Francais, near the village of Fricourt. This part of the front is described in some detail by Sassoon (who won his MC here) and Graves. Some of their young colleagues are buried at Point 110 Cemetery.
From there, the route took us to Danzig Alley Cemetery, then on to Mametz Wood and its famous dragon memorial. A group of Rotarians from Denbigh broke into hymns at this spot last year, reducing my driver to tears. A place of huge significance for the Welsh.

After a bite of lunch, we were off to Delville Wood, then on to admire the scaffolding poles on the Thiepval Memorial, then Beaumont Hamel, Serre and home - just as it started to get damp...

A conversation over a pression that night on the wartime contribution of the Empire led to a visit to the beautiful Indian Memorial at Neuve Chappelle en route to Ypres. After lunch in "Pop", we took on the Pilckem Ridge, calling in on the poet Hedd Wyn, and admiring the new Dragon on the road to Langemark. The German cemetery there, and the CWGC site at Tyne Cot, pretty much filled our afternoon. The inscription on the grave of a soldier called Aneurin Maldwyn Evans (By fyw in farw/By farw I fyw - He lived to die, he died to live) was a suitable point to stop our WW1 Welsh tour, and we headed into Ypres.

The Last Post that night was just as I like it - not too crowded, simple, and beautifully observed. Plenty to think about and talk about over a goodbye beer at the excellent Ariane Hotel.





If you have a group, big or small, who might be interested in this, or any other, itinerary give me a call on 07515 683456.
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Wednesday 3 February 2016

Summer Plans

Image result for yeats  "Education is not the filling of a pail, but rather the lighting of a fire..."

The words of WB Yeats always struck me as one of the wisest, but most widely ignored things ever said about education. This summer a Single Step Tour will give me the opportunity to visit his grave in County Sligo to pay my respects to one of the great names of Western civilisation.

The bespoke cultural tour will start with a Heathrow pick up, followed by a drive to Cardiff, where there will be some family roots to uncover. After a stay at the beautiful St David's Hotel on the Bay, we will drive to Laugharne. A night of "Poems and Pints" at Dylan Thomas' favourite watering hole, Brown's Hotel should get us in the mood for a day spent around the Welsh wizard's home town.

A crossing from Fishguard to Rosslare takes us next to the Emerald Isle. First up, a stay in Dublin, where we can sample the delights of Temple Bar, as well as retrace the steps of the Easter rebels of a hundred years ago. Our base will be the Grand Canal Hotel

Then the pilgrimage to Yeats country - with a visit to his grave and a trip to the mythical The Lake Isle of Innisfree

The route back to Heathrow will take us back over to Wales - North wales this time, where we will spend some time at Portmeirion and Snowdonia as well as studying the work and creative environment of another Thomas - the priest poet, RS Thomas.

A day and night at Shakespeare's Stratford rounds off a busy few days for the "pilgrim souls" on this bespoke tour...