Showing posts with label Somme. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Somme. Show all posts

Sunday, 28 July 2019

What is America to me?


As the newly inaugurated President Trump repeated the words “America First”, I thought of the immaculate white crosses above Omaha Beach in Normandy. Their beautifully tended cemetery above the DDay landing sites are testament to the fact that eventually all of us have to face the fact that we are citizens of a big wide world, a world that faces common problems that require collaborative efforts. America would not have defeated Fascism by repeating Trump’s mantra. 

In June of 2019 Single Step Tours helped the Honors College at the University of Wyoming construct a tour of the battlefields of northern France. We met up in London, and caught a ferry to Caen in bright sunshine. Three nights in Bayeux gave us the opportunity to explore the DDay battlefield in some detail, but perhaps the strongest impression on the students was when we stood on the sandy beach and looked up at the bluffs. In that moment we shared the perspective of those brave young soldiers  as they emerged from their landing craft on that fateful morning. It was experiential learning at its most powerful.

The tour moved on to the WW1 battlefields. The poetry of that war was shared and reflected upon in the fields of the Somme, where in 1916 the world began to see what industrialised warfare was capable of. We were also able to look at the challenges faced by nurses and doctors in these horrific circumstances. 

The last leg of the tour took us to Dunkirk, where 338,000 British soldiers were rescued from the beaches and returned to the U.K. in 1940. Hitler’s Blitzkreig had won a battle, but the successful evacuation played an important part in ensuring that the forces of liberal democracy would win the war. The view across the beaches was the ideal setting for a more general reflection on warfare in the 20th century. What causes war? Why fight? Most importantly, how should the lessons of the 20th century guide us through the 21st? 

The students and faculty of the University of Wyoming were thoughtful, open minded people who brought a variety of disciplines to the mix. Their contributions to the discussion on the ferry home showed that the whole experience had a profound impact on them. It was a reminder to me of why the battlefields are the best classroom a teacher could wish for, and why I do what I do. 

Wednesday, 19 December 2018



“What will survive of us is love...”

Working on a book about Welsh rugby star Charlie Pritchard has brought this line of Philip Larkin’s to mind more than once. 
Charlie was killed after leading a trench raid in August 1916, and now lies in a CWGC Cemetery at Chocques, near Béthune. A famous rugby international in his day, Charlie had been a firm favourite of the fans at Rodney Parade, where he led a ferocious pack of forwards in the famous Black and Amber shirt of Newport RFC. It would have been no surprise to people in his home town that he had shown such selfless leadership on the Western Front. For years after his death, his daughter would be greeted by strangers in the street, all wanting to tell her that her father had been a great man. More than just a rugby player.
Charlie’s family, of course, were well aware of that. His wife Florence was forever unable to face the day of his death, the 14th of August. Her children recalled that she would cut a bloom from Charlie’s rose garden and place it in a vase in the centre of the dining room, then retire to bed for the rest of the day. Her daughter Violet, born a few weeks after the death of Charlie, came to dread the 14th August every year, when the family’s wound would open once more. Violet died in 1985 - on the 14th of August. 

Monday, 23 April 2018

Our Eternal Home


Six years ago I began working on a book that tried to uncover the stories behind the list of 50 names that are etched into the heavy oak commemoration board that is housed in the Library at King Edward VI School, Southampton. The Stormy Blast was published by Natula in 2013, by which time I had set up Single Step Tours. As one of several trial runs at bespoke battlefield tours, I took my colleague Mike Long to the Somme. We were on the trail of his uncle, a young artillery officer who was killed in 1918.
This morning I managed a sneak preview of Mike’s own reflection on the War, a statue finished in bronze that will stand in one of the quads in the school building. Two years in the making, the piece is an eloquent and clever statement on the war. Working with Talos Art Foundry near Andover, Mike is a specialist in working in bronze, and is keen to follow up with more large scale commissions.





Three young men (whose detailed uniforms make it clear are representative of the army, the navy and the airforce) are fused, arm in arm, an embodiment of the enthusiasm of the young recruits. They share a hymn book, and the lines from the school hymn are etched into the base - “Time, like an ever rolling stream/Bears all its sons away...”
The quote is just one detail that the eye is drawn to in this quite startling piece of art. A trench line, a propeller, flare gun, a bullet holed canteen. The detritus of war, the horrific experiences that lie in wait for these smiling young men as they belt out the hymn for the last time at their “eternal home”.
For me, there are some familiar names - O.J. Hobbs, the science teacher killed at the Ancre in November 1916. Arthur Wolfe, the school’s head boy, his prize pupil, who followed him to a Somme grave in February 1917. This statue bears witness to their sacrifice.
Zoom in further - some will pick out the cap badges, cast from original WW1 badges, including Mike’s own uncle’s. Others will see the flies on the horse’s head - astonishingly, cast from real flies that were buzzing all around his studio. This is art that will reward a careful look. Not surprisingly given the artist’s background, this is art that teaches without lecturing, and is designed to make us think about the war and about rememberance.

“Art is not what you see, but what you make others see.” Edgar Degas

Friday, 3 February 2017

Remembering Sub. Lt. A.F. “Snowball” Wolfe (1897-1917)


 
Adapted from a chapter in The Stormy Blast (published by Natula)

 
Head Boy Arthur Wolfe was fresh out of King Edward VI School, Southampton in May 1915, and was on the beaches and cliffs of Gallipoli by the autumn. His Science teacher at the school, Owen Hobbs, had also joined the Royal Naval Division, and their paths would have crossed at Blandford, where the RNVR trained. Wolfe’s experience of war against the Turks was relatively short lived. Like so many others in that disastrous campaign, he was invalided out of the front line with dysentery, and was so ill that he did not return to active duty for a whole year. By the time he was in France at the end of 1916, the Battle of the Somme had accounted for many of the faces he would have been familiar with at Blandford – including Owen Hobbs.

 Wolfe and his colleagues were charged with the task of pushing on towards Miraumont, a village that the “Big Push” had failed to take in the summer campaign. To the north, the village of Serre also remained in German hands despite all the men and high explosives that had been thrown against it, but the fortress village of Beaumont-Hamel had fallen in the late autumn of 1916. Haig hoped that a move towards Miraumont would leave the German flanks on both sides of the valley exposed, so forcing a withdrawal. The Naval Division found the ground still wrecked from November’s actions, and the trenches needed some reconstruction work. The artillery had wiped any distinguishing features from the landscape, so movement at night became doubly difficult. The front line was often just a series of shell holes occupied by a small group of men. Any activity during the day, such as movement between shellholes, or further digging, would draw the inevitable rounds of German artillery. Troops just lay there, frozen and exposed on the side of the hill above Beaucourt. A little way to the north of Wolfe’s position, the Manchester Regiment lay in shell holes above Beaumont Hamel, and 2nd Lt Wilfred Owen used the whole terrible experience for his poem “Exposure”. The Nelson War Diary makes references to two Germans being shot when they appeared to be completely lost, and a German mail bag being recovered, perhaps simply dumped in the wrong place. The Diary states “Enemy observed at distances varying from 200 to 1000 yards.” For Wolfe and the new recruits, this was not the landscape they had expected to find.

At the end of January, 1917 the Nelson Battalion had moved back behind the lines, staying at billets in Forceville. By now, they would have been aware that there was (another) Big Push coming along, and that they would be heavily involved. They were issued with new box respirators, and inspected by the Brigadier on the last day of January. In frosty, bright conditions, they marched back to Beaucourt, taking up their positions to the north of the river on the 1st of February. New recruits and veterans alike knew the score – that no man could expect to come out of two successive Somme battles without an injury of some sort. Would they strike lucky, and get a “Blighty One”?

The initial objective was the German  trench on the ridge above Grandcourt, an attack launched at 11pm on the 1st of February. Wolfe’s unit was in reserve on this occasion, with the first wave made up of men from Hawke and Hood Battalions. The whole attack was to cover a total of less than 500 yards, but it was to take place over difficult terrain in darkness.

Initially, the attack made quick progress, with the German first trench taken. There was, however, a German machine gun strongpoint which caused the first wave some problems. The attackers on the 13th of November had seen such strongpoints cause terrible casualties (Owen Hobbs included) so officers attempted to get their units round them. Unfortunately, there was confusion, and the attacking line lost its direction. The Hood units lost contact with the advancing Hawke Battalion, and the strongpoint made it impossible for the Nelson Battalion, now called into the fray, to put some order into the line by linking up with the Hawke’s left flank. The fighting became bogged down, with the junction between the Hawke and Nelson units pinned down by the German machine gunners.

On the 4th February, 1917, Arthur Wolfe was killed in an attack that finally overpowered the strongpoint. Reports had told HQ that the problem was being caused by a machine gun in a shell hole, but it transpired that they had been facing a concrete dug out with a garrison of thirty two men. Wolfe was one of 24 officers and 647 men killed over the four days in this small corner of the Somme battlefield. From the time he had arrived in France, he had lasted just over the average of 6 weeks as a young officer.

Wolfe’s body was described as having been “buried where he fell”, on the uplands above Grandcourt. His is one of the 73,000 names on the Thiepval Memorial to the Missing. Sir Edwin Lutyens’ massive open air cathedral to the lost souls of the Somme dominates the skyline, and it is the first thing to catch the eye to the south from the fields where Wolfe’s body still lies.

Back home, his old Headmaster James Fewings would have been grief stricken to hear of the loss of his Head Boy. He resigned from his post at the end of the war, having spent four years anxiously scouring casualty lists, and hearing of the news of 50 of his old charges who would never return.  He used his final speech as Headmaster to announce the setting up of a Wolfe Prize. It may well be that for the old man, the loss of “Snowball” Wolfe was of symbolic importance. The Wolfe Prize, perhaps, was set up in memory of all those fresh faced young men who marched away.
 

 

Friday, 11 November 2016

98 years on...

98 years after the guns fell silent on the Western Front I find myself thinking of the 3500 US troops killed or wounded on that morning despite the fact that the generals knew that the armistice had been signed at 5am. The assaults on German positions continued right up to the designated 11am end to hostilities. Later, Congressman Fuller asked "Black Jack" Pershing if American lives had been "needlessly wasted" that morning.
Up at Compiegne, the German delegation had been startled by Foch's intransigence. His Gallic shrug and level stare was the response of a man who had seen his country bleeding to death over the course of the 4 years. "Tell these gentlemen that I have no proposals to make" he said, and waved them away.
No proposals, perhaps - but plenty of demands. German troops were to leave France, Belgium and Luxembourg. They were also to return Alsace Lorraine to France - that old wound had barely dried since the Franco Prussian War nearly 40 years back. France and its Allies were out to ensure that Germany would never be in a position to cause trouble again.
But as every History student knows, the severity of the peace treaty at Versailles did much to guarantee that there would be future conflict. It provided fertile soil for the growth of the Nazi Party in the succeeding decades, and the bitter crop was harvested in the self same railway carriage in Compiegne in 1940.
Those History students will be asking some big questions today.
They will see that we descended into World War in 1914 and 1939 because the world order was unstable, and it was challenged by ultra nationalists. Vast economic forces, barely understood at the time, caused tensions inside countries, and beyond their borders. These were exploited by political chancers who had little real understanding of the demons that they were unleashing on the world.
So - big questions...



Friday, 4 November 2016

Wilfred Owen

It was on this day - November 4th, 1918 - that the poet Wilfred Owen was killed leading his men in an attack across a canal near Ors. The war was in its final few days, and the 25yr old's parents took delivery of the dreaded telegram as the church bells were ringing out to celebrate the end to four years of hostilities. There is a link to his poems here - opinion may be divided as to how representative Owen was of the typical WW1 officer, but there can be no doubting the power of his verse, nor the extent of his influence on our own perception of the conflict. The poetry, he said, was in the Pity...












The canal bank nr Ors, where Owen was killed on Nov 4th 1918

Monday, 11 July 2016

The Iron Harvest

The so called "iron harvest" continues to amaze and appal in equal measure. The visitor to the Western Front has enough on his or her plate just getting their heads around the body count without contemplating the idea that this dreadful war might still be taking victims today.
A battlefield trip to the Somme with journalists from papers such as the Telegraph and Mirror led to a chance meeting with farmer Claude Samain, whose fields regularly yield piles of rusting munitions a hundred years on. In 1916, his fields were crisscrossed by a maze of communication trenches, filled with the flower of North country menfolk. Lads from Leeds and boys from Barnsley would have awaited their fate out on Claude's land. The ill fated Accrington Pals too. These were Kitchener's volunteers, who joined up in the breathless excitement of the late summer of 1914. They had trained hard, and were desperate to impress. This was their town's chance to make a mark. The Accrington Pals would become famous for the role they would play in the great breakthrough, they hoped. Tragically, they have become synonymous with the blood letting of July 1st, 1916. Accrington is forever associated with a strangely named football team and the fact that out of 700 men who went over the top on that sunny morning, 585 of them were dead or wounded just minutes later. They were, as a witness said, "mown down like meadow grass".
Claude's land is peaceful now. He showed us rusted heaps of metal, plied up against the brick wall of a barn. The weight and sharp edges of the shrapnel makes you shudder - what these red hot pieces of flying metal could do to a human body doesn't bear thinking about for too long. Venomous coils of barbed wire, spent cartridges, shell fuzes and bent rifle barrels had all been collected by Claude over the past few months. And around the corner, the dangerous stuff. Unexploded shells, some no doubt containing poison gas, stood to attention in neat rows waiting for the army truck to arrive. There didn't appear to be any rush.
Claude and his fellow farmers can be forgiven for being a little blasé about it all. He recalled his time as a child in these fields, exploring a nearby copse which had been used a medical post. He would chase around, hunting amongst the shredded pieces of tarpaulin for treasures in a place where  wounded men, some screaming, some at the very point of death, would have been carried in by sweating stretcher bearers. Suffering on an unimaginable scale has always formed the backdrop to his life in this quiet, rural corner of France.


 
STA Neil - kia July 1st 1916
Leeds Pals


Friday, 11 March 2016

Planning for the summer




With a long winter behind us, battlefield guides are shaking themselves down and sniffing the air. Daffodils are out.
The email inbox is filling up with requests to go to Ypres or the Somme - the usual venues - but also to visit small, out of the way cemeteries down quiet tracks to find the grave of a relative killed a hundred years ago. These bespoke battlefield tours are always special, and I learn as much as my clients on these trips.
And away from the WW1 battlefield tours, there are some intriguing cultural trips in the offing. Dylan Thomas' Wales, Yeats' Ireland and Shakespeare's Stratford are all in the mix.
It's all in the planning...